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Author Topic: Front fork seal replacement  (Read 23166 times)
TwoGuns
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« on: March 15, 2009, 05:09:23 PM »

Hey Scott, I have some questions for you. One of my forks is leaking and I'm thinking of replacements for both. How much did the parts cost and what parts do I need? The part numbers and descriptions. Also since I have never done any kind of maint and repair on my bike like this, I need some HELP! I appreciate all the help I can get! Thank you! Smiley
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BudMan
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« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2009, 09:13:42 PM »

I too have discovered a leak from my right fork leg.  Closer inspection indicated the left fork was also leaking.  I bought the Valk in Jan but I have a good maintenance history on her.  The springs were replaced with Progressives and the seals were replaced in 2005. I reviewed the following link and have decided I do not want to try this on my own without some on the spot guidance!
http://www.valkyrienorway.com/forksprings.html
These are great photos and notes, but I’m afraid I need more instruction than that.  I would let a local dealer do it, but I have some “trust issues” with dealers.
I’ll be glad to host a Wrench Party at my shop here in Tecumseh to try the repair if anyone is interested.
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Buddy
Tecumseh OK
VRCC # 30158
MOOT# 263
'76 XL-350 (Single)
'48 EL Harley (V-Twin)
'84 V-65 Magna (V-4)
'99 Valkyrie IS (Flat-6)
TwoGuns
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« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2009, 08:27:08 AM »

That sounds good to me BudMan. But who will we get to help us to make sure I don't screw it up? Grin
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Scott
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« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2009, 02:01:23 PM »

How much did the parts cost and what parts do I need? The part numbers and descriptions.

SEAL SET, FR. FORK
51490-MW0-003     $19.92

You need two of those.  Now, assuming the bushing aren't worn out, all you need is two seal sets and some fork oil. (and the special tools)

It looks scary, but its not that bad Wink





Or is it?  Heck, I've done it twice now.

I'd be happy to help, its just a matter of finding time.

-Scott
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LadyDraco
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« Reply #4 on: March 17, 2009, 03:49:00 PM »

Hey TwoGuns ... As Scott said .. It's not that bad...
Read the service book....
The tools are the  hardest part...

Wish we lived closer .. You could pull it right in to the shop...

Hey if I can do it anyone can...

I also changed out the triple tree at the same time to a raked one..
This was scary  Shocked


Here's a link to some pix

http://www.far-riders.com/albums/thumbnails.php?album=59&page=1

I'll be getting ready to put a new steering head bearings into the Green Valk of mine...

Have fun, it's a great learning experience


Tracy
« Last Edit: March 17, 2009, 03:51:19 PM by LadyDraco » Logged

TISE
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it's not the end.
Russell
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« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2009, 07:51:39 PM »

LadyDraco,
I just finished installing my fuel gauge after a month or two of putting it off. It works great and I just wanted to say thanks again for your help on which gauge to order.
P.S If I can change fork seals, anyone can change fork seals!
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LadyDraco
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« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2009, 06:53:07 AM »

LadyDraco,
I just finished installing my fuel gauge after a month or two of putting it off. It works great and I just wanted to say thanks again for your help on which gauge to order.
P.S If I can change fork seals, anyone can change fork seals!

Good Deal  Wink ...  I know you'll like them...
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TISE
Everything is always okay in the end, if it's not, then
it's not the end.
TwoGuns
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« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2009, 06:33:53 PM »

I appreciate everyone's input. I checked a price quote for Chickasha Honda to do the repairs and they want 200 bucks! YIKES!  Shocked Maybe that's not too bad, I don't know really. I would like to try and do it myself. Like LadyDraco said, it would be a great learning experience! And the only thing would be finding the time to do it and someone to help me and BudMan! Thank you everyone! Grin
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LadyDraco
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« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2009, 08:23:05 PM »

I did the re torque on my steering head bearing today.. On that Black bike in the photos...
It was at the 15k+... That's the time I was told to re tighten it...
   All is good .. The all important test ride was great... Cheesy

Just remember to read the book a few times....
I must have read it 6 times to get a few things in my head...
And they have a tendency to say something on one page
and finish it two pages later...

IE: Cut the green wire ... But only after you cut the blue LOL....
Or could just be the way I read.. LOL....  There are NO cutting of wires ...
Just a joke...

BTW .. $ 200 sounds about right.. @ 55-65 an hour... And parts...
But if they do you'll never learn....  Wink

All you need is a full day.... It can be done in a few hours....
If you have all the tools and parts...

Funny you have something apart then say hey I'll clean this up real good ..
 That's where you kill a little time in the job...
I would get side tracked that way...  I would clean everything up good...
Knowing I wouldn't be into it for another 100k....  Cheesy

I had a very good day ...  Grin
Sorry for rambling .. I love to wrench..
 It's so gratifying to do your own work !!
Then ride !!!!!

Tracy



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TISE
Everything is always okay in the end, if it's not, then
it's not the end.
BudMan
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« Reply #9 on: March 18, 2009, 10:51:14 PM »

Well TwoGuns, let’s go for it!  One of my Magna Owners Of Texas (MOOT http://www.magnaownersoftexas.com )  friends is changing to progressive springs on his Mag and may be in the shop then too.  He’s been involved in several fork jobs, but I don’t think any were Valks.
I have spoken with some of the MOOT members that have Valks and they too feel we can handle it. 
That being said, I am planning to start taking the parts off my Interstate to get down to the forks on Friday evening the 3rd of April.  That is the first time work and life stuff will allow me to start.  Feel free to come over Friday after work or early Saturday morning.the local Honda dealership in Shawnee gave me an estimate and allowed 2.53 hours of labor for the job.  I’m betting we will not be much more than double that on each bike.  If we are not finished by a reasonable time on Saturday, feel free to crash here and we’ll hit it again on Sunday.
I have plenty of room in the shop for all three scooters to be worked on at once.  Two or three others could probably be handled for less severe maintenance at the same time.
I am only familiar with one special tool for this operation, the spanner to loosen the left inner fork bolt.  I am making arrangements to acquire or borrow one of them.  I have a torque wrench, but it is old and may be replaced by the time we start.
LadyDraco, please tell us of any other special tools.  Huh
I am going to put new fork bushings in mine as well as the front bearings and dust seals on the axel.  I figure as long as I am in the area, why not.  I might as well do the brake pads too.  Actually, I have to do the one that has been getting the oil on it.  I’m sure they’re shot.  Tongue
I really only have one lingering concern; in the manual they address an inspection procedure to check for out of true (bent) inner tubes.  This employs two V blocks and a dial face indicator.  Now the question, is there any alternative for this procedure?  Can a straight edge be positioned along the side of the tube and checked for variance over the length of the tube, or something similar?
All data on this upcoming operation will be GREATLEY appreciated! 
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Buddy
Tecumseh OK
VRCC # 30158
MOOT# 263
'76 XL-350 (Single)
'48 EL Harley (V-Twin)
'84 V-65 Magna (V-4)
'99 Valkyrie IS (Flat-6)
LadyDraco
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« Reply #10 on: March 19, 2009, 07:23:19 AM »

LadyDraco, please tell us of any other special tools.  Huh

The only tip that was handed down to me .. And it helped was ...
The oem  wrench from the tool kit... All other wrenches are to wide


And a long necked hex I think it was a 8mm .. We had to buy a set from Craftsman  to get a good one
that you can put a torque wrench on it...


That's all I can think of.. Oh and you might want to barrow one of these as well if your going to barrow the big finger  wrench..
It's a folk seal setter... It helped .. I know with us having 6 valks it  payed for it's self after 2 bikes ...
But I liked it.... I didn't want to damage the seals...


Also remember to put the black tape at the end of the tube ... It does say it in the book  and it really makes the
seals slide on much easier...

Again look at the pix I posted ... Now was working a few things at the same time.. It might look confusing...
As steering head bearing and new triple tree .. And a head light issue all working at once...

PB blaster is your friend !!!  Wink As well as antiseze  I like the silver stuff.. It gets all over everything  Grin LOL..

I hope that helped...
Tracy
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TISE
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it's not the end.
Scott
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« Reply #11 on: March 19, 2009, 10:47:07 AM »

I am going to put new fork bushings in mine as well as the front bearings and dust seals on the axel.  I figure as long as I am in the area, why not.  I might as well do the brake pads too.  Actually, I have to do the one that has been getting the oil on it.  I’m sure they’re shot.  Tongue
I really only have one lingering concern; in the manual they address an inspection procedure to check for out of true (bent) inner tubes.  This employs two V blocks and a dial face indicator.  Now the question, is there any alternative for this procedure?  Can a straight edge be positioned along the side of the tube and checked for variance over the length of the tube, or something similar?
All data on this upcoming operation will be GREATLEY appreciated! 

Unless the bike has been damaged, there is no need to check the tube with a dial indicator.  The book is a little too detailed in that regard. 

And just so you know, there isn't much you have to take off on an Interstate to remove the forks.  Just the front wheel, calipers(obviously), and fender.  The fairing and all that can stay right where it is.  You can have the forks off in 30 minutes.

Also, I've seen several posts recently on the VRCC where they did not remove the forks to do the seal change.  If I can figure out how they pumped up the dampner after intalling new oil(of if its needed in this case), it looks to make the job much simpler.

-Scott
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Scott
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« Reply #12 on: March 19, 2009, 11:00:32 AM »

Tools:

You gotta have this:



I made one, and you are welcome to borrow.

More info on the tools here: http://www.rattlebars.com/vtx/forktools.html

I made the seal driver out of PVC and have used it twice now but its not a very good solution.  I've since heard that if you put the seals in the freezer prior to installing that they will go right in.  The cold makes them shrink up just enough....

-Scott
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BudMan
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« Reply #13 on: March 19, 2009, 05:14:28 PM »

Thanks Scott,
We use a split piece of PVC pipe for the Magnas', but they are far smaller than the Valk’s forks.  I may try to make one for the Valk out of some larger ID pipe if I can get the proper size to smoothly fit the tube.
I’ll either acquire the proper locknut tool or make one from pipe and weld a socket to the top to accept the ½ drive.
I’m overjoyed to learn I don’t have to take the cowl off! I saw your pics and was wondering if that was not the case. 
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Buddy
Tecumseh OK
VRCC # 30158
MOOT# 263
'76 XL-350 (Single)
'48 EL Harley (V-Twin)
'84 V-65 Magna (V-4)
'99 Valkyrie IS (Flat-6)
Gryphon
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« Reply #14 on: March 22, 2009, 11:14:16 AM »

I must admit that I am confused by all of the concern over the locknut tool.  I pulled the forks, and drained the oil to replace the seals on mine yesterday and didn't find it a bit difficult.  Since I had them off, I put in the progressive springs I got a few months ago and hadn't got around to putting in yet.  I didn't have the "special tool" to remove the lock nut on the one fork, but since it was off I decided to use what I had.  I put the brake mount loosely in the vise so it wouldn't turn and then loosened the locknut with the shock wrench from one of my other bikes.  I haven't looked to see if the one from the Valk will work, but the one from my Beemer is perfect.  After looenening it a couple threads, I threaded the cap back on the threaded rod, placed it on the floor on a shop towel, and them pressed down on the brake bracket while I unthreaded the nut with my fingers.  Admittedly, Tracy doesn't weigh 200# like I do, but the rest of you guys shouldn't have any trouble.  Both springs took around a half hour. Mostly because I was being extra cautious.  I actually had more problems with the slotted washer on the other one. 

Now if the "leakproof seals" I bought hadn't been too small, I would have been done by now. 
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